DIY Faux Plank Wall


Our laundry room is located in the walkout basement level of our home. Directly above it is the kitchen. When we were remodeling our kitchen, the husband incorrectly installed our new kitchen hardware. This caused a wonderful little slow leak that trickled down to our laundry room! After we discovered the leak and fixed it- this is what we were left with. This provided the perfect opportunity to replace drywall and instead of paint… install plank wood!

This is a quick tutorial because I actually found the most fantastic tutorial EVER right HERE! “Right up My Alley” gives the best tutorial on how to install a faux shiplap wall. I followed her instructions to the letter and had awesome results! She even gives you a grocery list you can take to your local home improvement store.

Here is a progress photo:



The only difference between our tutorials are that my local box store didn’t carry birch so I used oak. The results however were the same.

I used some super cheap trim around the edge of the walls. It was about $.89 for 8ft. The entire wall was stained with
Varathane Weathered Grey.

Thanks for following along! If you have any questions please comment or email!

DIY Barn Door for $25 in wood.

My local Home Depot has this fantastic tongue and groove wood for around $5 a piece. I needed a door that was about 7ft tall and this can as an 8ft piece, which was exactly what I needed!

The first step was cutting my boards down to 7ft with my miter saw. Once this was done I used liquid nails and surebonder wood glue and before I slid the tongue into the groove I squirt the glue into the groove.

I let this sit for about 2-3 hrs with clamps on so that I didn’t have to do anything else in regard to keeping the boards together. While it was drying I cut off the edge of the door that had the tongue sticking out. I used my Ryobi Jigsaw for this. I love my jigsaw! I use it a TON! My Ryobi has never let me down, I have had some cheaper jigsaws that break quite easily. (I purchased these from Harbor Freight.–side note– not all tools are created equal and the saying is true YOU do get what YOU pay for.)

After this and also while the glue was drying I used to end boards for decoration purposes as well as added reinforcement to keep the tongue and groove together. I use Spax screws on all of my builds for many reasons but the biggest are because they are SO easy to use- it doesn’t take much arm muscle, I can buy one box of multi use screws for several types of projects, and they are pretty screws so they don’t make my pieces look ugly! I decided to use a reclaim piece of wood for this process. It was part of the siderails on an old bed. After securing it with Spax Screws I sanded off the old stain so that the door absorbed the stain equally and didn’t look to different because I used different wood types.

When trying to decide which style of barn door you want I found this pinterest page to be super helpful in showing all of the different styles you can make.

Once the glue was dry I took of the clamps and stained my wood. I used Dark Walnut Varathane as well as Weathered Grey very lightly over the Walnut.


I ordered my hardware from Amazon. I found it for a whopping $75! (total steal) I have made my own hardware before, but this was such a good price and eliminated several steps of making my own hardware it was worth it.

Here’s what this little beauty looks like hung right outside my closet! Thanks for reading. Any questions- please email or comment. Thanks for stopping by!



DIY Crown Molding


Crown Molding is one of the best ways to customize your home and add value to it. Most people think crown molding is really hard to do, but I wanted to add color to my daughters ceiling and I thought the crown molding would really help the flow of the room.

Here’s what it looked like before

:image      image

It looked good, but not great- it definitely  needed a little something to bring it all together. I had already done base molding and chair railing so adding the crown molding seemed like the perfect touch.

The absolute BEST tutorial I have found is by Eric Rosenfield. His company UDECOR offers great how to videos and their business goal is to help YOU do your projects with their products. They specialize in Ceiling, Molding, and Accent Elements.  Jim has several  YouTube videos that show you how to add accents to your home. The one I used for this project was How to Cut Outside and Inside corners for crown molding.

This project took me a few hours to complete and I cut and installed it on my own using a miter saw and a finish nailer. . One of the awesome tips Eric gives is how to set your molding on the fence before cutting it. I took pictures above so you can see what this looks like.

Once the angles were cut I set the crown molding on the top of my wall and bottom of ceiling and used my finish nailer to install.

Because walls typically aren’t exactly 90′ angles they don’t always match up perfectly when installing. But the fantastic thing about these little gaps is caulk! I’m obsessed with caulk. I love how it finishes any project you were working on. It’s very easy to use and when you squeeze it into the gap and give it a rundown with your finger and wipe it with a wet cloth your corners.

The finish project really does add a wonderful touch to her room and I love the flow from the wall to the ceiling.

I highly encourage you to look at UDECOR on you tube. I have viewed alot of different how to’s on cutting and installing crown molding and this is by far the best I have ever seen.

Good luck and if you have any questions please comment or email me! Happy crowning 🙂


DIY Fireplace Makeover

Our house was built in 1978. In 1978 a huge brick fireplace apparently was in style. Since we bought the house 12 years ago it has been nothing but an eye sore. I’ve always wanted a mantle and to have the fireplace redone- but in my mind- this was too costly of an expense and I always saw other projects that needed to be done before this.

During Christmas when we once again didn’t have a place to hang our stockings, silly as it sounds, I decided I wanted to find a mantle to buy for our fireplace. I looked online and found something for about $160. Then I looked on Pinterest for inspiration, duh, and I came across THIS photo from Eat, Sleep, Decorate:fireplace

This was my inspiration. But THIS is how I knew I could do it. Young House Love is an awesome blog, by the cutest couple ever! John and Sherry gave step by step plans on how they remodeled their brick fireplace. After reading it I decided I wanted to attempt the same thing.

Here’s what I was dealing with:


Yuck right?? So off I went to Lowe’s for supplies. I purchased 1x3x12 pine, 1x2x10 pine, 1×1 pine, 1- 10 ft base board, and 2 sheets of MDF. I can’t say exactly how much you should buy because it definitely varies depending on the size you are trying to cover. I also purchased 1x8x10 poplar for the mantle. I started with assembling the mantle and I used a tutorial from Shanty2Chic which they explain how to build floating shelves. This essentially was the same thing I wanted, except on a larger scale. To put the mantle together I used my Ridgid Finish Nailer and my miter saw. Once this was finished I stained it with Minwax Special Walnut. After 2 coats of stain, 6 hours, and 3 coats of high gloss polyurethane I mounted it and moved on to the surround.

My original intent was to cover everything with MDF. While I was reading about Fireplace makeovers, I discovered that a fireplace surround made of wood needed to be 6-9″ from the hearth to be considered “code”. This meant I needed to re-evaluate my original thought and come up with some kind of stone before I started my wood surround. After measuring out 9 inches. I cut my first two pieces of MDF with a table saw and assembled to the existing brick. This was tricky! Thanks goodness I had a tutorial from Contractor Chronicles to give me an idea of what I was doing. I also used special Mortar Screws as well.


That’s a progress photo. As you can see I used 1×3 on the outside of the fireplace and MDF for the panels. The reason I mounted the mantle before starting the surround is because I am no artist. I am a visual person and wanted to be able to see the “big picture” while putting the casing together. Once this was done I wanted to add some trim work, so back to Lowe’s for some decorative squares and more 1×1. Here’s a progress photo:

I used 1×1 to cover the lines where I had to install separate pieces of MDF and I added the square decorative piece to give it a nice look,then finished it off with some 4″ base molding.This was all I had originally intended to do and once it was painted- here’s what it looked like:IMG_2200

I left a 9″ surround for code and had decided on a stone surround. But as I stared at this picture I actually hated it! The brick was KILLING me. It looked like a half completed project. It was just so wrong! I tried changing the decor and adding a piece of crown molding to the top.


My husband kept telling me over and over that he loved it and what a great job I had done… but come on! This? No bueno’. SO I waited until Monday, when he was at work, and ran back to Lowes for some more 1×3. I made some cuts and installed the rest of the scrap MDF I had and trimmed it up with 1×1, 1×3, and 2 more decorative pieces.

Heres what I ended up withimage

Finishing it to the top did the trick! I LOVE LOVE LOVE it!! The stone was our most expensive splurge which was about $15 a piece (contractor pricing), BUT it was leftover from a project my Dad’s friend had used it on and so he gave it to us for free!

NOT counting the stone- this project was $60 for the mantle- because we used POPLAR wood and $100 for the wood, MDF, paint, screws, glue, and nails. I was able to do a mantle and surround for the same price as ordering JUST a mantle online.

Here’s the disclaimer: While I am not a professional carpenter, this is not a beginner’s project. The mantle absolutely is! The surround required use of my  Ridgid Table Saw , finish nailer, miter saw and hand drill. I usually tell beginners the tools I started with were a miter, nailer, and drill. Using a Table Saw if you don’t have experience can be very tricky when learning how. Before I started using my Ridgid Table Saw- I watched all of their tutorials on Ridgid You Tube before trying my saw for the first time. Their tutorials show you how user friendly their tools are.

I LOVE my fireplace! Every time I walk into my house it’s the first thing I see and I always smile. I love that I did it! I love that it was so cheap! I love how bright and cheerful and clean it looks. It makes me happy and I know that’s silly- but that’s okay.


DIY Pallet Wood Arrow’s

These pallet arrows were so fun to make. Some pallets are easier to take apart than others- this one– not gonna lie- kind of a pain!


Here’s a great Tutorial on how to break down pallet if you need one- and he uses a Ridgid sawzall and I happen to be a pretty big Ridgid fan.

Once the pallet is in pieces here’s what it looks like:

Using my Hitachi miter saw I laid out my piece and cut the first piece at a 45 degree angle- turning my miter to the left. The first piece I disgarded. Then slip my piece to the right 3 inches and cut the piece again.

Repeat until you have the total amount of arrows you want times 2. I wanted 3 arrows so I cut 6 pieces.

Next comes painting. I wanted a rustic look so some got painted first- image

Disclaimer: I did paint the gold color- but then decided I didn’t like it and sanded it all off. THEN- I repainted the gold again on the clean, sanded wood and LOVED it.


It all for glued up and sat for a few hours. Another disclaimer: I have seen some tutorials where they use a mending plate on the back. I did not and my arrows have not fallen apart. But it’s always an option for you.

After the paint dried I used my sander and roughed them up. I sanded the two arrows clean and painted those with a gold metallic paint.
Last is the easiest! I used 3Mdouble sided tape to hang these and ta-dah!